| Image of a brass tinderbox with car cloth, striking flints and a selection of fire steels. |
Since I included gunpowder in a past newsletter article, I
found this article on a frontier website and thought to add. For your
enjoyment.
by Ron "Sign
Talker" Garritson
The art of making fire has been with us a very long time. It
has been our companion and friend, but it also has the potential to turn on us
and become a most dangerous enemy if we let it get out of our control as we all
know. One of the most common means of making fire since long before the fur
trade and on into the today's world of buckskinning is with flint and steel.
The four items one needs to make fire with flint and steel are, of course, a
piece of sharp flint, a high carbon steel striker, char and tinder. Besides
flint, there are other types of rocks/minerals one can use such as pyrite,
chert, agate, etc., I use one of these when I don't have a nice chard of
English flint. The steel striker can be obtained from any trader or blacksmith
attending any one of the many rendezvous across the country or at trading posts
like Fort Union or Bent's Fort as well as through any of the many reputable
buckskinning suppliers.
Char you have to make yourself. Some of the best char is
made from loose knit 100% cotton material such as Monk's Cloth, and flannel, as
well as punky (not crumbly) cottonwood. To make char you need a small tin can
with a tight-fitting lid. Such as an Altoids or pipe tobacco box. Punch a small
hole in the lid, make sure the tin interior is clean and loosely fill with your
choice of char material. Your char pieces should be cut in about 2-inch
squares. Replace the lid and be sure it has a fairly tight fit. Place it on the
fire and let it cook until the smoky gases cease to exit the tin via the small
hole.
Remove
from the fire and set aside until the tin is cool to the touch. If you open the
tin too soon, the contents will ignite and be rendered useless. Your char
should be nice and black but still intact.
Tinder can be gathered from a number of sources in nature.
Dry cheat grass, cattail down, inner bark of dead cottonwood (the papery
stuff), tow and ready to use old discarded small bird nests (not eagle or
magpie). Now this is the way I have come to making fire with flint and steel
after many years of experimenting with various techniques and methods and this
way beyond a doubt has proven to be the fastest and easiest way for me. Make yourself
a nice little bird nest of the tinder, the coarser material on the outside and
the finer softer material on the inside. Set aside until needed.
Now it's time to make a spark. Too often I have seen folks
put their char in the tinder nest and hold the striker over the char and strike
the steel with the flint. The results can be bloody knuckles, wet knees and
tinder and wasted time. This does work, but there is an easier and faster way
to land a spark on your char. Wrap the char around the sharp edge of your
flint, hold it in your left hand, or right if you are a lefty, and strike the
flint through the char with the steel and your chances of catching a spark on
the char the first time are mighty good. You will also want to hold the tinder
nest in your left hand under the flint so that the transfer of the char to the
nest will be quick.
This method is also quite handy if you are in wet conditions
and you don't want to get your tinder wet nor be on your knees on the cold wet
ground. As soon as the char has caught a spark, transfer the char to the tinder
nest and hold the nest cupped above you facing down wind and blow into the
nest, each time with gentle increasing force until the nest bursts into flames.
You then transfer the flaming nest into your little tipi of dry twigs and
sticks that you have pre-prepared, to which you add more kindling until you
have obtained the campfire of your desires. Like I said, this works for me.
Feel free to experiment on your own to find out what works best for you. I hope
this information may be helpful.
Burlap - Denim – Char will catch a spark and readily
ignites with burning glass. Will not hold a coal as long as Monk’s cloth.
Depending on thickness of the material Char is somewhat fragile. A fair char.
Monk’s Cloth – One of the best chars for lighting with flint & steel or
burning glass. Heavy loose weave of the cotton makes it easy to catch a spark
and holds a coal well. An excellent char. Yucca Stem – Very similar to Mullen
stem. Charred stem pieces difficult to light or catch a spark from flint &
steel. Charred stem difficult to hold next to fling for lighting, as they
disintegrate easily. Showering sparks into pile of stems difficult as sparks
seem to cool too much before contacting stems. Charred yucca very easily lit
with burning glass. Charred stems burn hot and long. Useful for starting a fire
with burning glass and for extending a coal when lit with flint & steel
using another source of char. Stems very good spindles in fire making, but not
as strong as other woods.
Mullen Stem – Very similar to Yucca stem. Charred stem
pieces difficult to light or catch a spark from flint & steel. Charred stem
difficult to hold next to flint for lighting, as they disintegrate easily.
Showering sparks into pile of stems difficult as sparks seem to cool too much
before contacting stems.
Charred mullen very easily lit with burning (Magnifying
glass) glass. Charred stems burn hot and long. Useful for starting a fire with
burning glass and for extending a coal when lit with flint & steel using
another source of char. Stems make fair spindles in fire making, much more
brittle than other spindles. “Punkie” Cottonwood – Similar to Yucca and Mullen
stem but will light with flint & steel with some effort. Sparks ignited
charred wood when sparks showered into a pile of char. Readily ignite with
burning glass and holds a coal well.
TINDER
1.
Inner fibers of cottonwood bark. This is the
papery stuff found on the underside of dead bark. Works better as the outer
layer of tinder nest with finer materials lined inside.
2.
Dry cheat grass. Ignites quickly. The stuff
prairie fires are made of.
3.
Dry cattail cobs. the down from the cobs ignites
quite well. I use this to line the inside of the tinder nest.
4.
Old abandoned bird nests. Ready-made tinder
nest, just add smoldering char.
5.
Tow. Ignites well, but better as the middle
layer of the tinder nest.
6.
Cottonwood down. Similar to that of the Cattail
down. I use a combination of all of the above in my pre-prepared tinder nests
in the following order.
If I find an old bird's nest, the tinder nest is already
made. Cattail and or cottonwood down for the inner layer, the next layer is the
dry cheat grass, then the tow, then an outer lay
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